The practice of assigning specific gemstones to calendar months is a tradition with deep historical roots, evolving through centuries of cultural and commercial influence. While the modern birthstone lists used in many Western countries are primarily derived from the standards set by the American National Retail Jewelers Association in 1912, other historical systems offer fascinating insights into the gemological beliefs of earlier eras. One such system is the Italian birthstone chart, a list believed to have been used by Italian merchants in the 17th century. This chart presents a unique selection of gems that differ in several key aspects from contemporary lists, reflecting the availability, trade routes, and cultural values of Renaissance and Baroque Italy. This article explores the Italian birthstone chart, examining its historical context, the gemstones it includes, and the enduring legacy of these stones in both historical lore and modern jewelry.
The Italian birthstone chart, as documented in historical archives, assigns a single gemstone to each month. This list includes: Jacinth for January, Amethyst for February, Jasper for March, Sapphire for April, Agate for May, Emerald for June, Onyx for July, Carnelian for August, Peridot for September, Aquamarine for October, Topaz for November, and Ruby for December. This selection provides a fascinating contrast to the modern lists, which often include multiple stones for each month and feature gems like diamond, pearl, and garnet more prominently. The Italian list leans heavily on stones that were historically significant in the Mediterranean region, reflecting the trade networks of the time and the symbolic meanings attached to these minerals.
Historical Origins and the 17th-Century Italian Context
The Italian birthstone chart is a product of its time, reflecting the gemological knowledge and commercial practices of 17th-century Italy. During this period, Italy was a center of art, commerce, and intellectual inquiry, with cities like Venice, Florence, and Rome serving as major hubs for the gem trade. The Italian peninsula was a crossroads for gems coming from the East, via the Silk Road and maritime routes, as well as from Europe and Africa. Merchants and jewelers would have been familiar with a wide array of gemstones, and their lists would have been influenced by both local availability and the symbolic associations that had been attached to these stones for centuries.
The 17th century was an era of burgeoning scientific inquiry, yet many beliefs about gemstones were still rooted in ancient traditions. The Italian list likely draws from a confluence of sources, including classical texts, medieval lapidaries (books describing the properties of stones), and practical experience in the gem trade. For example, the association of Sapphire with April and Ruby with December in the Italian list contrasts with the modern Western system, where Sapphire is the birthstone for September and Ruby for July. This difference underscores how birthstone assignments were not standardized and could vary significantly by region and historical period.
The Italian chart’s inclusion of stones like Jasper, Agate, and Onyx—all varieties of chalcedony—highlights the importance of these more common, yet culturally significant, materials. These stones were widely available and often used in cameos, intaglios, and decorative arts. Their prominence in the Italian list suggests a valuation based not just on rarity and beauty, but also on durability, workability, and symbolic meaning. The chart thus serves as a window into the gemological priorities of Italian artisans and merchants of the 17th century.
The Italian Birthstone List: A Month-by-Month Analysis
The Italian birthstone chart presents a distinct sequence of gems, each with its own historical and cultural significance. Below is a detailed analysis of each stone as it appears in the chart, drawing exclusively from the information provided in the historical records.
January: Jacinth
Jacinth is the gemstone assigned to January in the Italian chart. Historically, the term "jacinth" has been used to refer to several different gemstones, most commonly a reddish-brown variety of zircon. In the context of 17th-century Italy, it is likely that jacinth referred to this zircon variety, which was prized for its warm, honey-like colors and good brilliance. Jacinth was known in antiquity and was mentioned in the Bible as one of the foundations of the New Jerusalem. Its association with January may link to its warm hues, reminiscent of fire and vitality during the cold winter month.
February: Amethyst
Amethyst, a purple variety of quartz, holds a consistent place in many historical birthstone lists, including the Italian chart. In the 17th century, amethyst was a relatively accessible gemstone, found in various parts of Europe and Asia. It was highly valued for its rich purple color, which was associated with royalty, spirituality, and calmness. The Italian assignment of amethyst to February aligns with other historical traditions, suggesting a long-standing recognition of this stone's symbolic power.
March: Jasper
Jasper, a form of chalcedony, is the birthstone for March in the Italian list. Jasper is an opaque, often patterned stone that occurs in a wide range of colors, including red, brown, yellow, and green. It was one of the most widely used gemstones in antiquity and the Renaissance, often carved into cameos, seals, and amulets. Its association with March may relate to its earthy tones, symbolizing the awakening of nature in spring. Jasper was believed to possess protective qualities and was used in various forms of jewelry and decorative arts.
April: Sapphire
In the Italian chart, Sapphire is assigned to April, a departure from the modern Western list where it is associated with September. Sapphire, a variety of corundum, is renowned for its deep blue color, though it can occur in other hues as well. In 17th-century Italy, sapphire was a highly prized gemstone, often associated with nobility and the divine. Its assignment to April in the Italian list may reflect its symbolic connection to clarity, truth, and wisdom, qualities often sought in the spring season. The use of sapphire in April also suggests its importance in the gem trade during that period.
May: Agate
Agate, another variety of chalcedony, is the birthstone for May in the Italian chart. Agate is characterized by its distinctive banding patterns and a wide range of colors. It was a popular material for cameos, intaglios, and other carved objects in Renaissance Italy. The stone's association with May may be linked to its varied and intricate patterns, symbolizing the complexity and beauty of spring. Agate was also believed to have protective properties and was used in various forms of talismanic jewelry.
June: Emerald
Emerald, a green variety of beryl, is the birthstone for June in the Italian list. This is a significant difference from the modern Western list, where June is associated with pearl and moonstone. Emeralds have been prized since antiquity for their vibrant green color, which symbolizes rebirth and fertility. In 17th-century Italy, emeralds were highly valued and often sourced from Colombia via Spanish trade routes. Their assignment to June may reflect their association with growth and renewal, fitting for the early summer month.
July: Onyx
Onyx, a black variety of chalcedony, is the birthstone for July in the Italian chart. Onyx is known for its deep black color and was often used in cameos and intaglios, where it provided a striking contrast to other stones. In the Italian list, onyx is assigned to July, a month associated with intense heat and the peak of summer. The stone's dark, cool appearance may have been seen as a counterbalance to the summer heat, or it may have been valued for its protective qualities. Onyx was also believed to ward off negative energy and was used in various forms of jewelry.
August: Carnelian
Carnelian, a reddish-orange variety of chalcedony, is the birthstone for August in the Italian chart. Carnelian was a popular gemstone in ancient Rome and the Renaissance, often used in signet rings and cameos. Its warm, fiery color is associated with vitality, courage, and creativity. The assignment of carnelian to August, the height of summer in Italy, may reflect its connection to the sun's energy and the active, vibrant season.
September: Peridot
Peridot, a green variety of olivine, is the birthstone for September in the Italian list. Peridot has been known since antiquity and was often mistaken for emerald. In the Italian chart, its assignment to September may relate to its green color, which symbolizes growth and renewal, fitting for the autumn month. Peridot was believed to have protective properties and was associated with the sun in ancient Egyptian culture.
October: Aquamarine
Aquamarine, a blue variety of beryl, is the birthstone for October in the Italian chart. Aquamarine's name derives from the Latin for "seawater," reflecting its beautiful blue hues. In the Italian list, it is assigned to October, a month associated with the sea and autumn. Aquamarine was believed to protect sailors and travelers and was associated with calmness and clarity. Its assignment to October may reflect these symbolic qualities.
November: Topaz
Topaz, a silicate mineral, is the birthstone for November in the Italian chart. Topaz occurs in a variety of colors, but it is most commonly associated with yellow, orange, or brown hues. In the Italian list, its assignment to November may relate to its warm colors, reminiscent of autumn leaves. Topaz was believed to have healing properties and was associated with strength and wisdom.
December: Ruby
Ruby, a red variety of corundum, is the birthstone for December in the Italian chart. This is a notable difference from the modern Western list, where ruby is associated with July. Ruby has been prized for its deep red color, symbolizing passion, love, and vitality. In the Italian chart, its assignment to December may reflect its association with warmth and energy during the cold winter month. Rubies were highly valued in the gem trade and often sourced from Asia.
Gemological Properties and Historical Significance
The Italian birthstone chart includes a diverse array of gemstones with distinct properties. Below is a summary of the key gemological characteristics of these stones, based on historical knowledge and general gemological principles. Note that specific data such as hardness, chemical composition, and refractive index are not provided in the historical sources, but general properties can be discussed based on established gemology.
| Gemstone | Mineral Family | Typical Colors | Historical Sources (17th Century Context) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jacinth | Zircon | Reddish-brown, honey-yellow | Likely sourced from Sri Lanka, Cambodia, or other Asian regions via trade routes. |
| Amethyst | Quartz (Variety) | Purple, violet | Found in Europe (e.g., Hungary), Asia, and Africa. Widely traded. |
| Jasper | Chalcedony (Variety) | Red, brown, yellow, green | Abundant in Europe, Asia, and Africa. Commonly used in carvings. |
| Sapphire | Corundum | Blue (most prized), also yellow, pink, etc. | Sourced from Asia (e.g., Sri Lanka, Burma). Highly valued in European courts. |
| Agate | Chalcedony (Variety) | Banded patterns in various colors | Found in Europe, Asia, and the Americas. Popular for cameos and intaglios. |
| Emerald | Beryl | Green | Sourced from Colombia (via Spanish trade) and possibly Egypt. Extremely valuable. |
| Onyx | Chalcedony (Variety) | Black, sometimes with white bands | Found in Europe and Asia. Used for contrast in carvings and jewelry. |
| Carnelian | Chalcedony (Variety) | Reddish-orange, brownish-red | Found in Europe, Asia, and Africa. Popular in Roman and Renaissance jewelry. |
| Peridot | Olivine | Olive green, yellow-green | Sourced from Egypt (Zabargad Island) and possibly other locations. |
| Aquamarine | Beryl | Light blue to blue-green | Found in Brazil, but also in Europe (e.g., Portugal). Associated with seafaring. |
| Topaz | Silicate | Yellow, orange, brown, blue | Sourced from Brazil, Sri Lanka, and other regions. Valued for its clarity. |
| Ruby | Corundum | Red (from pink to deep crimson) | Sourced from Asia (e.g., Burma, Sri Lanka). Among the most precious gems. |
The Italian birthstone chart reflects a period when gemstones were valued not only for their beauty but also for their perceived metaphysical and protective properties. Each stone in the list carries a rich history and symbolism that was recognized in 17th-century Italy.
Symbolism and Metaphysical Beliefs
In the 17th century, gemstones were deeply intertwined with metaphysical beliefs, astrology, and medicine. The Italian birthstone chart likely drew from these traditions, assigning each stone symbolic meanings that were believed to influence the wearer. While the specific beliefs associated with each stone in the Italian chart are not detailed in the historical sources, general knowledge of Renaissance and Baroque gem lore provides context.
- Jacinth was believed to promote wisdom and foresight. It was often worn as a talisman to protect against plague and other diseases.
- Amethyst was associated with sobriety, calmness, and spiritual clarity. It was believed to ward off intoxication and promote a clear mind.
- Jasper was considered a stone of protection and grounding. It was used in amulets to guard against physical and spiritual harm.
- Sapphire symbolized truth, sincerity, and divine favor. It was believed to bring peace and happiness and to protect against envy and evil.
- Agate was thought to enhance strength, courage, and longevity. It was often used in healing rituals and as a protective stone.
- Emerald represented rebirth, fertility, and love. It was believed to improve eyesight and promote domestic harmony.
- Onyx was associated with protection, strength, and focus. It was believed to absorb negative energy and provide stability.
- Carnelian symbolized vitality, courage, and creativity. It was thought to stimulate motivation and protect against negative emotions.
- Peridot was believed to ward off nightmares and bring peace and prosperity. It was also associated with healing and renewal.
- Aquamarine was linked to the sea and was believed to protect sailors, promote clear communication, and calm fears.
- Topaz was associated with strength, wisdom, and good fortune. It was believed to enhance mental clarity and promote honesty.
- Ruby symbolized passion, love, and power. It was believed to bring success in love and war and to protect against misfortune.
These symbolic meanings were often derived from ancient texts, such as those by Pliny the Elder, and were perpetuated through medieval lapidaries and Renaissance treatises. The Italian birthstone chart, therefore, represents not just a commercial list but a repository of cultural and spiritual beliefs that were integral to the gem trade.
The Italian Birthstone Chart in Modern Context
While the Italian birthstone chart is a historical artifact, its influence can still be seen in modern jewelry and gemstone culture. Some jewelers and gemstone enthusiasts reference historical birthstone lists to create unique and meaningful pieces. The Italian chart, with its distinct selection of stones, offers an alternative to the standardized modern lists.
In contemporary jewelry, stones like Aquamarine, Peridot, and Ruby remain popular as birthstones for their respective months, even if the Italian assignments differ from modern ones. For example, Aquamarine is now commonly associated with March in the modern list, but in the Italian chart, it is linked to October. This variation highlights the fluidity of birthstone traditions and the importance of historical context.
The Italian chart also emphasizes stones that are less common in modern lists, such as Jasper, Agate, and Onyx. These stones are often used in artisanal jewelry and custom pieces, valued for their unique patterns and historical significance. The chart serves as a reminder that birthstones are not fixed but are part of a living tradition that evolves over time.
Care and Cleaning of the Italian Birthstone Gems
Proper care of gemstones is essential to maintain their beauty and longevity. While specific cleaning instructions for each stone are not provided in the historical sources, general gemological principles can be applied based on the hardness and durability of the minerals. The following guidelines are based on standard gem care practices:
- Jacinth (Zircon): Zircon is relatively hard (Mohs hardness of 6.5-7.5) but can be brittle. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners and sudden temperature changes.
- Amethyst (Quartz): Quartz is durable (Mohs hardness of 7). Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft cloth. Avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight, which can cause fading.
- Jasper (Chalcedony): Chalcedony is relatively hard (Mohs hardness of 6.5-7) but can be porous. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Avoid harsh chemicals.
- Sapphire (Corundum): Sapphire is very hard (Mohs hardness of 9) and durable. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Ultrasonic cleaners are generally safe for untreated stones.
- Agate (Chalcedony): Similar to jasper, agate is durable but porous. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft brush.
- Emerald (Beryl): Emerald has a hardness of 7.5-8 but often has inclusions and fractures. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners and harsh chemicals, as they can damage the stone or its treatments.
- Onyx (Chalcedony): Onyx is durable but can be sensitive to heat and chemicals. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft cloth.
- Carnelian (Chalcedony): Similar to other chalcedony varieties, carnelian should be cleaned with warm, soapy water and a soft brush.
- Peridot (Olivine): Peridot has a hardness of 6.5-7 and is relatively soft. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners and sudden temperature changes.
- Aquamarine (Beryl): Aquamarine has a hardness of 7.5-8 and is durable. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Ultrasonic cleaners are generally safe for untreated stones.
- Topaz (Silicate): Topaz has a hardness of 8 and is durable. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight, which can cause fading in some colored varieties.
- Ruby (Corundum): Like sapphire, ruby is very hard (Mohs hardness of 9) and durable. Clean with warm, soapy water and a soft brush. Ultrasonic cleaners are generally safe for untreated stones.
These care guidelines ensure that the gemstones from the Italian birthstone chart can be preserved for generations, maintaining their historical and aesthetic value.
Conclusion
The Italian birthstone chart from the 17th century offers a unique perspective on the historical significance of gemstones. Its selection of stones—Jacinth, Amethyst, Jasper, Sapphire, Agate, Emerald, Onyx, Carnelian, Peridot, Aquamarine, Topaz, and Ruby—reflects the gemological knowledge, trade networks, and cultural beliefs of Renaissance and Baroque Italy. While differing from modern birthstone lists, the Italian chart highlights the enduring appeal of these stones and their deep connections to human history, symbolism, and artistry.
For gemstone enthusiasts, jewelry buyers, and students of gemology, the Italian birthstone chart serves as a valuable case study in the evolution of birthstone traditions. It underscores how birthstones are not merely commercial products but are embedded in a rich tapestry of history, science, and culture. By understanding the Italian chart, we gain a deeper appreciation for the gems that have captivated humanity for centuries and continue to hold special significance in our lives today.