The practice of assigning specific gemstones to each month of the year, known as birthstones, is a tradition with deep historical roots and significant cultural evolution. While the modern concept is largely a product of 20th-century commercial standardization, its origins are entwined with ancient beliefs, religious texts, and the enduring human fascination with the beauty and perceived powers of colored stones. This article explores the journey of birthstones from their earliest known associations to their current status as popular, personalized jewelry choices, drawing upon the historical and gemological information available in the provided sources.
The modern birthstone chart, as widely recognized today, lists a specific gem for each month. For instance, January is associated with garnet, February with amethyst, March with aquamarine, and April with diamond. May is linked to emerald, June to alexandrite (and traditionally pearl), July to ruby, August to peridot, September to sapphire, October to tourmaline, November to topaz, and December to blue topaz. This list, however, represents only one iteration in a long history of gemstone assignments. Historical records reveal that the concept of a birthstone per month is not a static tradition but one that has been adapted and expanded over centuries. Sources indicate that jewelers have continued to add options to the modern birthstone chart over time, with spinel, citrine, and tanzanite being cited as recent modern additions. This flexibility reflects a dynamic interplay between tradition, availability, and contemporary taste.
The journey of birthstones can be traced back to the Breastplate of Aaron, a sacred garment described in the Old Testament of the Bible. This breastplate was set with twelve different gemstones, each representing one of the twelve tribes of Israel. While the exact identification of these ancient stones is a subject of scholarly debate due to translation challenges and the evolution of gemological nomenclature, the breastplate established a powerful precedent for linking specific stones to specific groups or time periods. Later, in the first century A.D., the historian Josephus drew a connection between the twelve stones on the breastplate and the twelve signs of the zodiac, proposing that each gem corresponded to a particular astrological sign. This idea was further developed by early Christian scholars, who associated the stones with the apostles and the months of the year. By the 8th and 9th centuries, a custom had emerged in Poland and Germany of wearing a different gemstone each month, believed to harness the stone's unique power during its corresponding time. This practice, however, was not yet standardized; individuals might wear a single stone for a month or accumulate a collection of twelve, one for each month.
The standardization of the list began in earnest in 1912, when the American National Retail Jewelers Association (now Jewelers of America) compiled the first official modern birthstone list. This list was intended to provide a consistent guide for the jewelry trade and consumers. The 1912 list included many gems that remain popular today: garnet for January, amethyst for February, diamond for April, emerald for May, pearl for June, ruby for July, peridot for August, sapphire for September, tourmaline for October, topaz for November, and turquoise for December. Aquamarine was listed for March. This list was not static; it has been updated several times since. For example, in 1952, the list was revised to include alexandrite for June, citrine for November, and zircon for December. Further updates occurred in 2002, when tanzanite was added as an alternative for December, and in 2016, when spinel was added as an alternative for August. These revisions demonstrate the ongoing evolution of the birthstone tradition, influenced by new gem discoveries, market availability, and consumer demand.
A parallel tradition to the modern list is the "traditional" birthstone list, which often includes older, more historically rooted stones. For example, while the modern list for August includes peridot and spinel, the traditional list includes sardonyx. For October, the modern list features tourmaline, while the traditional list includes opal. The modern list for November lists golden topaz and citrine, whereas the traditional list simply lists topaz. December’s modern list includes blue zircon, blue topaz, and tanzanite, while the traditional list includes turquoise and lapis lazuli. The coexistence of these lists highlights the layered nature of the tradition. Some traditional gems, such as turquoise and cultivated pearls, are noted as being less expensive or more readily available than their modern counterparts, which can influence their continued popularity. Today, in the United States, people often draw freely from both lists, choosing stones that appeal to them personally, whether for their color, perceived symbolism, or historical significance.
The symbolism and lore associated with birthstones are as varied as the gems themselves, often stemming from their color, historical use, and the metaphysical beliefs attached to them. These beliefs, while not scientifically proven, form a rich cultural tapestry that adds to the allure of each stone. For instance, garnet, the January birthstone, is commonly associated with the color red, though it can be found in almost any color. The garnet family is complex, consisting of several species and varieties. Symbolically, some believe garnets are protective stones, shielding the wearer from injury, which made them popular among warriors and royalty. Red varieties are also associated with vitality, love, and light, occasionally linked to life-giving blood.
Amethyst, the February birthstone, is a purple variety of quartz. Its color, ranging from pale lilac to deep reddish purple, has long been connected with royalty, making it favored by the ruling class. Over time, amethyst has also become associated with spirituality, mental clarity, and healing. The stone has a relatively high hardness of 7 on the Mohs scale, making it very scratch-resistant and suitable for all kinds of jewelry.
Aquamarine, named for its seawater color, is the blue to blue-green member of the beryl family. Its name comes from the Latin for "seawater," and historically, the stones were thought to protect seafarers. Some also associate aquamarines with marital happiness and superior intellect. It is readily available and moderately priced, making it an excellent jewelry stone.
Diamond, the April birthstone, is renowned for its unmatched hardness and brilliance. While the provided sources focus on its status as a birthstone and its historical role in the 1912 list, its enduring symbolism of love and strength is well-established in broader cultural contexts.
Emerald, the May birthstone, is a green variety of beryl. Its vibrant color has been prized since antiquity, and it is often associated with rebirth and renewal.
June offers two traditional birthstones: pearl and alexandrite. Pearls, formed within mollusks, have a unique organic origin. They have been cultivated and valued for centuries, symbolizing purity and are often used in traditional jewelry. Alexandrite is a rare chrysoberyl variety known for its remarkable color change, appearing green in daylight and red under incandescent light. This unique property has made it highly sought after.
Ruby, the July birthstone, is a red variety of corundum. Its color can reach vivid levels of saturation, and fine-quality rubies are among the most expensive gemstones. Symbolically, rubies have long been connected with physicality and strength. Favored by warriors, they were thought to increase the wearer's strength and stamina and were also believed to calm anger and help navigate passionate social situations.
Peridot, the modern August birthstone, is always green but with considerable variations in shade, depending on its source. It has been prized as a jewelry stone since ancient times and has been credited with protecting its wearer during the night. Spinel is a recent modern addition for August, offering a range of colors and often being more affordable than ruby or sapphire.
Sapphire, the September birthstone, is also a variety of corundum, typically blue, but can be found in many other colors except red (which is ruby). It is traditionally associated with wisdom and royalty.
Tourmaline, the October birthstone, is known for its wide range of colors. It is a complex borosilicate mineral. The traditional birthstone for October is opal, which is famous for its play-of-color, an optical effect unique to this gem.
Topaz is the traditional birthstone for November. The modern list includes golden topaz and citrine. Citrine, a yellow to red-orange variety of crystalline quartz, is a popular modern birthstone due to its durability, availability, and warm hues. It is associated with healing and happiness. Topaz itself, particularly the blue variety, is also a modern birthstone for December.
December's modern birthstones include blue topaz, blue zircon, and tanzanite. Blue topaz often starts as colorless or pale blue and is treated to achieve a vivid greenish blue color. Tanzanite, a relatively new discovery, has gained popularity for its unique blue-violet hue. The traditional birthstones for December are turquoise and lapis lazuli, both of which have been used in jewelry for millennia and are associated with protection and spiritual insight.
Understanding the gemological properties of these stones is crucial for both appreciation and care. Hardness, measured on the Mohs scale, is a key factor in determining a gem's durability and suitability for different types of jewelry. For example, amethyst has a hardness of 7, making it resistant to scratching. Diamond, the hardest known natural material, has a hardness of 10. Softer stones, such as opal (hardness 5.5-6.5), require more careful handling. Color is another primary property, influencing both beauty and value. The saturation and hue of a stone can dramatically affect its price and desirability. For instance, vivid rubies and deep blue sapphires command premium prices. Clarity refers to the presence of internal inclusions or external blemishes. While some gems like emeralds are known for their inclusions (jardin), which can be part of their character, high-clarity stones are generally more valuable. Cut affects how light interacts with the gem, influencing its brilliance and fire. Carat weight measures the size of the gem, with larger stones being rarer and more expensive, all else being equal.
The sources of these gemstones are as diverse as the gems themselves. Garnets are mined in various locations worldwide, including Africa, Sri Lanka, and India. Amethyst was once rare but is now found in large quantities in Brazil, Uruguay, and Zambia. Aquamarine is mined in Brazil, Nigeria, Madagascar, and Pakistan, among other countries. Diamonds are sourced from countries like Botswana, Russia, Canada, and South Africa. Emeralds are primarily mined in Colombia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. Pearls are cultivated in oyster farms, primarily in China, Japan, and French Polynesia. Rubies come from Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, and Africa. Peridot is found in Egypt, Pakistan, and the United States (Arizona). Sapphires are mined in Sri Lanka, Kashmir, and Australia. Tourmaline is sourced from Brazil, Afghanistan, and the United States. Citrine and topaz are mined in Brazil, Spain, and the United States. Blue topaz is often treated in laboratories, starting with material from Brazil or Nigeria. Tanzanite is found exclusively in Tanzania. Lapis lazuli comes primarily from Afghanistan.
Caring for birthstone jewelry requires knowledge of each gem's specific properties. Harder gems like diamond, sapphire, and ruby can be cleaned with mild soap and warm water using a soft brush. Softer gems like opal, pearl, and turquoise require more gentle care; they should be wiped clean with a soft, damp cloth and stored away from harder materials to prevent scratching. Pearls, being organic, are particularly sensitive to chemicals, acids, and heat, so they should be kept away from cosmetics, perfumes, and hairspray. Heat treatment is common for many gems, such as amethyst and citrine, but excessive heat can damage some stones. It is always advisable to consult a professional jeweler for specific cleaning and maintenance instructions.
In conclusion, the tradition of birthstones is a fascinating blend of history, geology, and cultural symbolism. From the ancient Breastplate of Aaron to the standardized lists of the 20th century, birthstones have evolved to reflect both enduring traditions and modern trends. The modern birthstone chart, with its monthly assignments and occasional additions, offers a guide for those seeking a personal connection to a gemstone. Whether chosen for its historical significance, metaphysical beliefs, or simply its beauty, each birthstone carries a story. Understanding the properties, origins, and lore of these gems enhances their value, allowing wearers to appreciate not just the stone itself, but the rich tapestry of human culture and natural history it represents. As the tradition continues to evolve, with new gems being introduced and old ones re-evaluated, birthstones remain a vibrant and meaningful part of the world of jewelry.