The practice of associating specific gemstones with birth months is a tradition that has evolved over centuries, blending ancient symbolism with modern commerce. Today, birthstones serve as popular choices for personalized jewelry, offering a meaningful connection to one's birth month. While the concept is widely recognized, the history behind the standardized list and the properties of each stone is rich with cultural significance and gemological interest. This article explores the origins of birthstones, the evolution of the modern list, and the key characteristics of the gems associated with each month.
The tradition of wearing birthstones is believed to have roots in the biblical era, specifically in the description of the Breastplate of Aaron in the Book of Exodus, which was adorned with twelve gemstones representing the twelve tribes of Israel. Over time, different cultures assigned these gems to each month based on factors such as astrological signs or seasonal traits. The practice of wearing a specific gem linked to one's birth month gained popularity in eighteenth-century Europe, particularly in Poland and Germany, before spreading to the United States.
A significant milestone in the history of birthstones occurred in 1912 when the American National Retail Jeweler’s Association, now known as Jewelers of America, adopted a standardized list of monthly birthstones. This list was intended to provide clarity and consistency for jewelers and consumers alike. The modern list differs slightly from the traditional list, often to include more transparent and durable gems suitable for everyday jewelry. This is why some months now offer multiple birthstone options, allowing for personal preference and availability.
The commercial appeal of birthstones is undeniable. They serve as a powerful marketing aid, helping shoppers select personalized gifts. For instance, a salesperson might use a customer's birth month to suggest a specific gemstone, simplifying the gift-selection process. This has led to the widespread popularity of birthstone jewelry, including three-piece sets (ring, pendant, and earrings) that are popular for birthdays and graduations. Furthermore, birthstones have fostered family traditions, such as "Mother’s Rings" that incorporate the birthstones of children, creating sentimental and personalized heirlooms.
While the modern list was standardized in 1912, it has seen several updates over the years to reflect changes in gemstone availability and consumer interest. For example, in 1952, alexandrite was added as an alternative for June, citrine for November, and pink tourmaline for October, while zircon replaced lapis lazuli for December. In 2002, tanzanite was added as an option for December, and in 2016, spinel was added as an alternative for August. These updates ensure the list remains relevant and offers a diverse range of choices for each month.
The following sections provide a detailed overview of each birthstone, including its traditional and modern alternatives, color, key symbolism, and hardness on the Mohs scale. This information is presented to help gemstone enthusiasts, jewelry buyers, and students of gemology understand the unique qualities of each stone.
January: Garnet
Garnet is the traditional birthstone for January. Contrary to common belief, garnets are not limited to red hues; they are available in a wide spectrum of colors, including green (tsavorite and demantoid), orange (spessartine and hessonite), purple (rhodolite), yellow (mali and topazolite), pink (malaya), red (almandine and pyrope), and black (melanite). Some opaque varieties, such as pink hydrogrossular and green grossularite, are typically cut as cabochons. This color variety provides those born in January with numerous options. Garnet symbolizes friendship, trust, and protection, and its hardness ranges from 6.5 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, making it a durable choice for jewelry.
February: Amethyst
Amethyst, a variety of quartz, is the birthstone for February. It is renowned as the world's most popular purple gem, a characteristic that enhances its status as a birthstone. Amethyst is associated with peace, protection, and tranquility. It has a hardness of 7 on the Mohs scale, which makes it relatively resistant to scratching and suitable for various jewelry applications.
March: Aquamarine and Bloodstone
March offers two birthstones: aquamarine as the modern choice and bloodstone as the traditional alternative. Aquamarine, a member of the beryl family, is prized for its light blue color, reminiscent of seawater. It symbolizes courage, honesty, and loyalty, and has a hardness of 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, making it an excellent gem for rings and pendants. Bloodstone, also known as heliotrope, is a dark green chalcedony with red spots of iron oxide. It is a durable stone, with a hardness similar to that of aquamarine, and shares the same symbolic meanings of courage and vitality.
April: Diamond and Rock Crystal
Diamond is the modern birthstone for April, renowned for its clarity, brilliance, and symbolic meanings of love, purity, and strength. As the hardest known natural material, diamond scores a 10 on the Mohs scale, making it exceptionally durable and ideal for daily-wear jewelry. The traditional alternative for April is rock crystal, a colorless variety of quartz. Rock crystal, while not as hard as diamond (hardness 7 on the Mohs scale), offers a clear, affordable alternative with its own historical significance.
May: Emerald and Chrysoprase
Emerald, a vibrant green variety of beryl, is the primary birthstone for May. It symbolizes rebirth, love, and wisdom. Emeralds typically have a hardness of 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, but they often contain inclusions, which are accepted as part of their character. The traditional alternative for May is chrysoprase, a green chalcedony colored by nickel. Chrysoprase is also a durable stone, with a hardness of 6.5 to 7, and is valued for its apple-green hue.
June: Pearl, Alexandrite, and Moonstone
June is unique in having three birthstones: pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone. Pearls, formed within mollusks, are organic gems with a classic white or cream color. They symbolize purity, innocence, and faith. However, pearls are relatively soft, with a hardness of only 2.5 to 4.5 on the Mohs scale, requiring careful handling. Alexandrite is a rare variety of chrysoberyl known for its dramatic color change from green in daylight to red or purple under incandescent light. It has a hardness of 8.5, making it very durable. Moonstone, a variety of feldspar, exhibits a soft, glowing sheen called adularescence. It has a hardness of 6 to 6.5 and is associated with hope and new beginnings.
July: Ruby and Carnelian
Ruby, a red variety of corundum, is the modern birthstone for July. It is a symbol of passion, protection, and prosperity. With a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, ruby is one of the hardest and most durable gemstones, second only to diamond. The traditional alternative for July is carnelian, a reddish-brown variety of chalcedony. Carnelian, with a hardness of 6.5 to 7, has been used in jewelry since ancient times and is valued for its warm, earthy tones.
August: Peridot, Spinel, and Sardonyx
August features three birthstones: peridot as the primary stone, with spinel and sardonyx as alternatives. Peridot, a magnesium-rich olivine, is known for its lime-green color. It symbolizes strength, good fortune, and peace, and has a hardness of 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs scale. Spinel, available in a variety of colors, has been mistaken for ruby throughout history. It is a durable gem with a hardness of 8, making it suitable for all types of jewelry. Sardonyx is a banded variety of chalcedony, combining layers of sard and onyx, and shares a similar hardness range with peridot.
September: Sapphire and Lapis Lazuli
Sapphire, a blue variety of corundum, is the traditional birthstone for September. It symbolizes wisdom, loyalty, and nobility, and shares the same exceptional hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale as ruby, ensuring great durability. The alternative for September is lapis lazuli, a metamorphic rock composed primarily of lazurite, calcite, and pyrite. Lapis lazuli has been valued for its intense blue color since antiquity but is softer, with a hardness of 5 to 5.5 on the Mohs scale, making it more suitable for pendants and beads than for rings.
October: Opal and Tourmaline
October offers opal and tourmaline as birthstones. Opal is famous for its play-of-color, a phenomenon where flashes of various colors appear as the stone is moved. It symbolizes hope, creativity, and innocence. However, opal is relatively fragile, with a hardness of 5.5 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale, and requires careful care to avoid cracking. Tourmaline, available in a rainbow of colors, is a much harder and more durable gem, with a hardness of 7 to 7.5. Pink tourmaline was added as an alternative for October in 1952, and it is valued for its vibrant hues and resilience.
November: Topaz and Citrine
Topaz is the modern birthstone for November, associated with love, affection, and strength. It has a hardness of 8 on the Mohs scale, making it a durable choice for jewelry. Topaz occurs in a variety of colors, including yellow, blue, and pink, though the traditional November stone is often associated with yellow. Citrine, a yellow to brownish-red variety of quartz, is the alternative birthstone for November. With a hardness of 7 on the Mohs scale, citrine is an affordable and attractive option, symbolizing warmth and vitality.
December: Tanzanite, Turquoise, and Zircon
December provides three birthstones: tanzanite, turquoise, and zircon. Tanzanite, a blue to violet variety of zoisite, was added to the official list in 2002. It symbolizes protection, healing, and wisdom and has a hardness of 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs scale. Turquoise, an opaque, blue-to-green mineral, has been prized for millennia for its unique color. It is relatively soft, with a hardness of 5 to 6, and is often used in cabochon cuts. Zircon, not to be confused with synthetic cubic zirconia, is a natural gemstone available in various colors, with blue zircon being a popular choice for December. Zircon has a hardness of 6.5 to 7.5 and is known for its high refractive index and brilliance.
Care and Cleaning of Birthstone Jewelry
The care required for birthstone jewelry varies significantly based on the gem's hardness, cleavage, and stability. For example, diamonds, sapphires, and rubies (hardness 9-10) are very durable and can be cleaned with warm soapy water and a soft brush. Softer stones like pearls, opals, and turquoise (hardness 2.5-6) require gentler handling; they should be wiped clean with a soft cloth and stored separately to avoid scratches. Stones with good cleavage, such as topaz, should be protected from hard blows. It is always advisable to consult a professional jeweler for cleaning and maintenance, especially for valuable or antique pieces.
Conclusion
The tradition of birthstones is a fascinating blend of history, science, and personal symbolism. From the ancient Breastplate of Aaron to the modern standardized list, these gems have evolved to become cherished elements of personal and family heritage. Whether chosen for their beauty, symbolic meaning, or connection to a specific month, birthstones continue to be a popular and meaningful way to adorn oneself and celebrate life's milestones. Understanding their unique properties and care requirements ensures that these gems can be enjoyed for generations to come.