The term "colored" in gemology and the broader world of gemstones is a fundamental descriptor, yet its usage carries a complex history that extends beyond mere physical properties. While the adjective "colored" is straightforwardly used to describe the hue of a gemstone—such as a "colored gemstone" or a "colored stone"—its application has been deeply intertwined with social history, particularly in the context of human identity. This article explores the dual nature of the term, examining its straightforward gemological meaning against the backdrop of its historical and social connotations, as detailed in authoritative lexical and cultural sources. For enthusiasts and students of gemology, understanding this duality is essential for navigating both the scientific and cultural landscapes of the gemstone world.
The journey of the word "colored" reflects a broader narrative of societal change. In non-historical contexts, its use is now considered largely unacceptable, a shift that underscores evolving social sensitivities. However, within the realm of gemology, the term retains its precise, technical meaning, serving as a vital descriptor for the vast and vibrant spectrum of gemstones that are not colorless diamonds. This distinction is crucial for anyone engaging with gemstones, whether as a collector, a jewelry buyer, or a scholar. The following sections will delve into the historical evolution of the term, its specific application in gemology, and the cultural significance that has shaped its usage over time.
The Historical and Social Evolution of "Colored"
The adjective "colored" has a long and fraught history, particularly in its application to people. According to Merriam-Webster, the adjective meanings of "colored" relating to race were formerly in common and widespread use well into the 20th century. However, attitudes toward these terms had changed significantly by the 1960s. Today, the adjective as used by others is considered offensive; the preferred terms are "Black" and "African American." This shift reflects a broader societal movement toward more respectful and accurate language.
It is important to note that the term is not universally rejected. In some contexts, "colored" is still occasionally used in self-reference by and between Black people. This self-identification is a matter of personal and community preference, distinct from the term's use by others. The Oxford Learner's Dictionary also notes the term's historical offensiveness, marking it as "old-fashioned" and "offensive" when used to describe a person who is not white. Furthermore, the dictionary provides a specific geographical context: in South Africa, "Colored" (with a capital "C") is a formal demographic classification referring to people with parents of different races, a legacy of the apartheid era. This specific usage persists in official and social contexts within South Africa, demonstrating how language can be shaped by unique historical and political circumstances.
The noun form of "colored" was also once in common and widespread use. However, by the 1960s, societal attitudes had evolved, leading to a decline in its acceptability. A notable exception to this decline is its presence in the full name of the NAACP (the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People), a civil rights organization founded in the early 20th century. The organization's name remains a historical artifact, a testament to the era in which it was established and the linguistic landscape of that time.
"Colored" in a Non-Human Context: The World of Gemstones and Objects
In contrast to its sensitive social applications, the term "colored" is used in a neutral and descriptive manner for objects, including gemstones. The Oxford Learner's Dictionary defines "colored" as "having a particular color or different colors." This definition is illustrated with examples such as "brightly colored balloons," "vases made of colored glass," and "a cream-colored suit." In the context of gemology, this is the primary and accepted usage.
A "colored stone" or "colored gemstone" refers to any gemstone that possesses color, distinguishing it from the colorless category of diamonds. This is a standard classification in the gem and jewelry trade. The term is used in compounds, such as "colored ink" or "colored pencils," to specify the hue of the material. In gemology, this is analogous to describing a gem's color as "blue-colored" or "green-colored." The term is purely descriptive of a physical property: the selective absorption of light that gives a gemstone its characteristic hue.
The usage of "colored" versus "coloured" is a matter of regional spelling. "Colored" is the predominant spelling in American English (en-US), while "coloured" is standard in British English (en-GB), as well as in varieties of English used in the UK, Australia, and New Zealand. This spelling difference does not alter the meaning but is an important consideration for international communication and publishing within the gemological community.
The Gemological Perspective: "Colored Gemstones" as a Category
Within the gemological profession, "colored stones" form one of the major categories of gem materials, alongside diamonds and pearls. This classification is foundational to the industry. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), a leading authority in gemology, consistently uses the term "colored stone" in its educational materials, grading reports, and research publications. For example, the GIA offers courses and certifications specifically in "Colored Stone Grading," where the focus is on evaluating the four Cs—color, clarity, cut, and carat weight—tailored to the unique characteristics of colored gems, where color is often the most critical value factor.
The term "colored" in this context is devoid of any historical or social baggage. It is a technical descriptor that encompasses a vast array of gem species, including corundum (sapphire, ruby), beryl (emerald, aquamarine), quartz (amethyst, citrine), and many others. Each of these species has a distinct chemical composition and crystal structure that gives rise to its color. For instance, the green of an emerald is caused by trace amounts of chromium and vanadium, while the blue of a sapphire is due to iron and titanium impurities. The study of these color-causing elements is a core component of gemological science.
The trade in colored gemstones is a global industry, with specific regions known for producing particular gems. For example, Colombia is renowned for its emeralds, Myanmar (Burma) for its rubies, and Sri Lanka for its sapphires. The term "colored stone" is used universally across this international trade to refer to these non-diamond gemstones. It is a neutral, functional term that facilitates communication among miners, cutters, dealers, jewelers, and consumers worldwide.
Distinguishing "Colored" from "Fancy" and Other Descriptors
In the world of gemology, particularly concerning diamonds, the term "fancy" is used to describe diamonds with intense color. A "fancy colored diamond" is a diamond that exhibits a vivid hue, such as pink, blue, or yellow, beyond the normal color range of white diamonds. While "colored" and "fancy" can sometimes be used interchangeably in casual conversation, they have distinct meanings in a professional context. "Colored stone" is a broad category for all non-diamond gems, while "fancy colored diamond" is a specific subset within the diamond category.
Other terms used in gemology to describe color include "hue" (the primary color, e.g., red), "tone" (the lightness or darkness of the hue), and "saturation" (the intensity or purity of the hue). These terms provide a more precise and scientific description of a gemstone's color than the simple adjective "colored." For instance, a gemologist might describe a sapphire as having a "vivid blue hue with medium tone and high saturation," which is far more informative than simply calling it a "colored blue stone."
The use of "colored" is most prevalent in marketing and general consumer contexts. Jewelry advertisements often highlight "colored gemstones" to attract buyers looking for vibrant, eye-catching pieces. In contrast, within academic or highly technical gemological circles, the specific species name (e.g., ruby, sapphire, emerald) is preferred for its precision. However, "colored stone" remains the umbrella term that unifies the diverse family of non-diamond gems.
The Cultural and Symbolic Significance of Colored Gemstones
While the term "colored" itself is a technical descriptor, the gemstones it describes are rich with cultural and symbolic meaning. Throughout history, different cultures have attributed specific powers, meanings, and astrological connections to colored gemstones. This tradition is the foundation of the birthstone concept, where specific gems are associated with each month of the year.
For example, the deep red of a ruby has long been associated with passion, power, and protection. In ancient India, rubies were considered the "king of gems" and were believed to contain an inner fire. Similarly, the vibrant green of the emerald has been linked to fertility, rebirth, and love. Cleopatra, the famous Egyptian queen, was known for her passion for emeralds, which were mined in Egypt as early as 1500 BCE.
The blue sapphire has been a symbol of wisdom, royalty, and divine favor. In medieval Europe, sapphires were worn by clergy and royalty, believed to protect against envy and harm. The yellow of the citrine, often called the "merchant's stone," is associated with prosperity and success. These symbolic meanings are deeply embedded in human culture and add a layer of significance that goes beyond the gem's physical properties.
The modern birthstone list, established by the American National Retail Jewelers Association in 1912 and periodically updated, includes a wide array of colored gemstones. For instance, January is represented by garnet (typically deep red), February by amethyst (purple), March by aquamarine (blue-green), and so on. Each of these colored gems carries its own historical lore and metaphysical beliefs, making them more than just decorative objects. For the birthstone enthusiast, understanding these cultural contexts enriches the experience of owning and wearing these gems.
Care and Maintenance of Colored Gemstones
The care required for colored gemstones varies significantly depending on their specific gemological properties, particularly their hardness on the Mohs scale and their susceptibility to cleavage or fracture. The term "colored" does not imply a specific level of durability; a colored stone could be as hard as a sapphire (Mohs 9) or as soft as a pearl (Mohs 2.5-4.5).
- Hardness: Gems like diamonds (Mohs 10), sapphires, and rubies (Mohs 9) are very durable and can be cleaned with mild soap, warm water, and a soft brush. They are resistant to scratching by most other materials.
- Cleavage and Toughness: Some colored gemstones, like emeralds (beryl), have poor toughness due to internal inclusions and can be prone to chipping or breaking if struck. They require more gentle handling. Similarly, diamonds have perfect cleavage in four directions, making them susceptible to damage if struck along these planes.
- Chemical Sensitivity: Pearls, organic gems, are very sensitive to chemicals, including those in cosmetics, perfumes, and hairspray. Opals are also sensitive to sudden temperature changes and can crack if exposed to dry conditions.
Therefore, general care instructions for "colored stones" are inadequate. Owners must consult specific guidelines for their particular gem. For example, ultrasonic cleaners are safe for most sapphires and rubies but can damage emeralds, pearls, and opals. The GIA and other gemological laboratories provide extensive resources on the proper care for different gem species.
Conclusion
The word "colored" serves as a bridge between two distinct worlds: the technical, descriptive realm of gemology and the complex, sensitive landscape of social history. In gemology, "colored stones" form a vital and vibrant category, encompassing the vast majority of gem species valued for their hue, from the deep red of ruby to the brilliant blue of sapphire. This usage is precise, professional, and universally understood within the trade. In contrast, its historical application to people is now widely recognized as offensive, a relic of a past that the modern world has largely moved beyond, with the exception of specific contexts like South Africa's official classifications and the self-identified names of organizations like the NAACP.
For the gemstone enthusiast, student, or buyer, appreciating this duality is key. It allows for a clear understanding of the term's proper use in a gemological context while fostering an awareness of its broader cultural implications. The colored gemstones themselves—each with a unique geological story, a spectrum of color, and a rich tapestry of cultural symbolism—remain objects of enduring fascination. Their value lies not only in their beauty and rarity but also in the human stories and scientific principles they embody. As the language continues to evolve, the term "colored" in gemology stands as a testament to the field's focus on the physical properties of the Earth's treasures, while the social history of the word reminds us of the importance of respectful and conscious communication.