Bracelets are a versatile and popular form of jewelry, often worn daily and subjected to frequent movement and potential impact. When selecting a birthstone bracelet, understanding the gem's physical properties is as crucial as appreciating its color and symbolism. The durability of a gemstone—determined primarily by its hardness and cleavage—directly influences its suitability for this type of jewelry. A stone that is prone to scratching, abrasion, or breakage may not withstand the rigors of regular wear in a bracelet setting. This article explores the gemological properties of various birthstones, their historical and cultural significance, and provides practical guidance for selecting and caring for birthstone bracelets, drawing exclusively on the provided source materials.
The concept of birthstones has deep roots, with the earliest references tracing back to the biblical era. The Book of Exodus describes the Breastplate of Aaron, adorned with twelve gemstones representing the twelve tribes of Israel. This ancient tradition evolved over centuries, and by the eighteenth century, the practice of assigning specific gems to months and wearing them in jewelry had become established in Europe, subsequently spreading to the United States. In 1912, the American National Retail Jeweler’s Association (now Jewelers of America) adopted a standardized list of monthly birthstones, a list that continues to guide jewelers and consumers today. Birthstone jewelry, including bracelets, remains immensely popular, with millions of dollars' worth purchased monthly in the United States alone. These pieces are often cherished as personal gifts, family heirlooms, or symbols of identity.
Historical and Cultural Significance
The tradition of wearing birthstones is rich with lore and personal meaning. Many cultures and historical periods have attributed protective, healing, and spiritual properties to specific gems, believing they offer benefits unique to those born in a particular month. For instance, sapphire, the September birthstone, has long been a favorite of priests and kings, symbolizing purity and wisdom. Ancient beliefs held that a venomous snake would die if placed in a vessel made of sapphire. October's birthstone, opal, derives its name from the Latin opalus, meaning "precious jewel." Necklaces with opals were traditionally worn to repel evil and protect eyesight, symbolizing faithfulness and confidence. The November birthstone, topaz, is believed to grant the wearer increased strength, intellect, and is a symbol of love and affection. December's turquoise is regarded as a love charm and a symbol of good fortune and success, with turquoise rings specifically thought to protect the wearer from harm and evil spirits.
Beyond individual symbolism, birthstones have fostered strong family traditions. Jewelry items like mother's rings, which set the birthstones of a woman's children, and family pendants create lasting legacies. These pieces often become generational heirlooms, weaving personal history into tangible objects. The practice of gifting birthstone jewelry, from a child's first ring to an engagement ring, personalizes the act of giving, making it more meaningful than a generic purchase. This emotional connection is a key driver of the birthstone market, though it is not without its critics. Some view the assignment of gems to months as an arbitrary marketing ploy, a sentiment that highlights the tension between commercial appeal and genuine cultural tradition.
Gemological Properties and Durability for Bracelets
When choosing a gemstone for a bracelet, its physical characteristics are paramount. Bracelets experience frequent contact with surfaces, making them susceptible to scratches and impacts. The Mohs scale of hardness, a measure of a mineral's resistance to scratching, is a critical factor. Additionally, gems with perfect cleavage—planes along which they can easily break—require extra caution.
The Most Durable Options
For bracelets intended for daily wear, certain birthstones offer exceptional durability. These gems, with a hardness of 9 or 10 on the Mohs scale, are suitable for any type of jewelry, including bracelets that face regular abrasion. - Diamond (April): With a hardness of 10, diamond is the hardest known natural material. Its brilliance and durability make it an excellent choice for a bracelet that will last a lifetime, though its cost can be prohibitive. Lab-created diamonds offer a more affordable alternative with identical properties. - Ruby (July) and Sapphire (September): Both are varieties of corundum, with a hardness of 9. They are exceptionally resistant to scratching and are ideal for bracelet settings. Their vibrant red (ruby) and blue (sapphire) colors provide striking visual impact.
Very Good Durability
These gems have a hardness of at least 7.5, making them very suitable for bracelets, though they may require more care than the top-tier stones. - Aquamarine (March): A variety of beryl, aquamarine has a hardness of 7.5 to 8. Its pale blue to blue-green hues are popular for bracelets, offering good durability for everyday wear. - Spinel (August): Often confused with ruby or sapphire, spinel has a hardness of 8. It is available in a wide range of colors, including vibrant reds, pinks, and blues, making it a versatile and durable choice for a birthstone bracelet. - Alexandrite (June): Known for its dramatic color change from green in daylight to red in incandescent light, alexandrite is a variety of chrysoberyl with a hardness of 8.5. Its rarity and unique properties make it a prized, though often expensive, choice.
Good Durability with Precautions
These birthstones are durable enough for bracelets but are softer (hardness below 7.5) and more prone to scratching and abrasion. For a bracelet, a protective setting (such as a bezel) is recommended, and the wearer should avoid activities that could cause damage. - Garnet (January): With a hardness of 6.5 to 7.5, garnets are reasonably durable but can be scratched. Their deep reds and other colors are classic for jewelry. - Amethyst (February): A variety of quartz with a hardness of 7, amethyst is susceptible to scratching. Its purple hue is popular for bracelets, but care should be taken to avoid hard impacts. - Bloodstone (March): A green chalcedony with red speckles, bloodstone has a hardness of 6.5 to 7. It is suitable for bracelets but should be protected from abrasion. - Sardonyx (August): A banded variety of chalcedony, sardonyx has a hardness of 6.5 to 7. Its contrasting bands make for interesting bracelet designs, but it requires careful handling. - Tourmaline (October): Available in a vast spectrum of colors, tourmaline has a hardness of 7 to 7.5. It is a good choice for bracelets but can be scratched by harder materials. - Citrine (November): A yellow to brownish-orange variety of quartz, citrine has a hardness of 7. It is a popular and affordable choice for bracelets but should be treated with care.
Fair to Poor Durability for Bracelets
These gems have significant vulnerabilities, such as low hardness, perfect cleavage, or proneness to breakage, making them less ideal for bracelets, especially those worn daily. They are better suited for earrings, pendants, or occasional-wear bracelets. - Emerald (May): With a hardness of 7.5 to 8, emeralds are surprisingly hard but are notoriously prone to breaking due to inclusions and fractures (jardin). Their perfect cleavage makes them vulnerable to impact, a significant risk for a bracelet. - Opal (October): Opal has a low hardness (5 to 6.5) and is easily scratched. It is also sensitive to temperature changes and can craze or crack. An opal bracelet would require exceptional care and is not recommended for active wear. - Peridot (August): A variety of olivine, peridot has a hardness of 6.5 to 7. It is prone to scratching and can be chipped or broken, especially in a bracelet setting. - Zircon (December): While zircon has a high refractive index and brilliance, it has a hardness of 6.5 to 7.5 and perfect cleavage, making it susceptible to chipping and breaking. It is not ideal for a bracelet that will encounter knocks. - Moonstone (June): A variety of feldspar, moonstone has a hardness of 6 to 6.5 and perfect cleavage. It is very prone to breaking and is easily scratched, making it a poor choice for a bracelet. - Topaz (November): Topaz has a hardness of 8, which is good, but it possesses perfect cleavage, meaning it can split along planes if struck with sufficient force. This makes it risky for a bracelet. - Tanzanite (December): A variety of zoisite, tanzanite has a hardness of 6.5 to 7 and perfect cleavage. It is a relatively soft stone that breaks easily and is not recommended for bracelets. - Pearl (June): Pearls have an extremely low hardness (2.5 to 4.5) and are easily scratched by other jewelry. A pearl bracelet should be worn only for special occasions and stored separately to avoid abrasion. - Turquoise (December): Turquoise has a hardness of 5 to 6 and is often porous. It is susceptible to scratching, staining, and breakage, making it a challenging choice for a daily-wear bracelet.
Practical Considerations for Bracelet Selection and Care
Choosing the Right Setting
The setting of a birthstone bracelet can significantly enhance its durability. For softer gems (Good durability) or those with cleavage issues (Fair to Poor), a protective setting is crucial. A bezel setting, where the metal fully surrounds the gem's girdle, offers the best protection against impacts and abrasion. Prong settings, which expose more of the stone, are riskier for softer gems but can be used with harder stones like diamonds, rubies, and sapphires. For very soft or cleavage-prone stones like opal or moonstone, a pendant or earrings may be a more practical choice than a bracelet.
Care and Maintenance
Proper care extends the life and beauty of any birthstone bracelet. - Cleaning: The safest method for most gemstones is warm water, mild soap, and a soft brush. Avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners (especially for stones with inclusions or cleavage like emerald), and steam cleaners for vulnerable gems. Pearls and opals are particularly sensitive and should be wiped clean with a soft, damp cloth rather than submerged. - Storage: Store bracelets separately in a soft cloth or lined jewelry box to prevent scratches. Pearls should be stored in a breathable bag to maintain moisture. - Wearing Habits: Remove bracelets before engaging in physical activities, cleaning, or swimming. Apply lotions, perfumes, and hairsprays before putting on jewelry to avoid chemical damage, especially to porous stones like turquoise.
Synthetic and Lab-Created Alternatives
For those seeking the color of a delicate birthstone without the fragility, or for budget-conscious buyers, synthetic and lab-created gems offer an excellent alternative. Lab-created diamonds, rubies, and sapphires have the same chemical and physical properties as their natural counterparts, including exceptional hardness and durability, making them ideal for bracelets. Other lab-created gems like emeralds are also available, though they retain the same durability challenges as natural emeralds. It is essential that any man-made gem is clearly disclosed by the seller, as per the Federal Trade Commission's guidelines for the jewelry industry.
Conclusion
Selecting a birthstone bracelet involves a balance between aesthetic preference, symbolic meaning, and practical durability. While historical lore and personal significance add profound value to these pieces, the gem's physical properties determine its ability to withstand daily wear. For bracelets, harder gems like diamond, ruby, and sapphire offer the best combination of beauty and resilience. Softer stones can still be used successfully with careful consideration of setting and wear. Understanding these factors ensures that a birthstone bracelet is not only a meaningful gift but also a durable piece of jewelry that can be cherished for years to come.