Emeralds, with their captivating deep green hue, have been treasured for millennia, symbolizing rebirth, love, and prosperity. As the traditional birthstone for May, the emerald carries a rich legacy of historical significance and geological wonder. However, the contemporary jewelry market offers a distinct alternative that aligns with modern values of accessibility and ethical sourcing: the synthetic emerald. This article explores the synthetic emerald as a May birthstone, delving into its creation, properties, and the cultural symbolism it carries in today's world, particularly within the context of popular jewelry collections like those from Made By Mary.
History and Lore: From Ancient Mines to Modern Labs
The history of the emerald is as deep and complex as the gemstone itself. For centuries, natural emeralds have been mined in locations such as Colombia, Zambia, and Brazil, each source yielding stones with unique color characteristics. Ancient civilizations, including the Egyptians, revered the emerald as a symbol of fertility and immortality. Cleopatra, the famous Egyptian queen, was known for her fondness for emeralds, often wearing them as a testament to her power and wealth. The Roman author Pliny the Elder, in his Natural History, described the emerald as "nothing green surpasses it," highlighting its enduring appeal.
The journey of the emerald to becoming a modern birthstone is a more recent development, largely standardized in the early 20th century. In 1912, the American National Association of Jewellers (now Jewelers of America) published a list of birthstones, which included the emerald for May. This list has been updated over time, but the emerald has remained a constant, solidifying its place in Western culture as a gemstone for those born in the spring month.
In contrast, the synthetic emerald represents a technological leap. The first successful synthesis of emerald was achieved in the 1930s by the German chemist Otto Schott, but it was the hydrothermal method perfected by the company Chatham Created Gems in the 1950s that brought high-quality synthetic emeralds to the commercial market. These lab-created stones are not imitations; they are chemically, physically, and optically identical to their natural counterparts, differing only in their origin. The advent of synthetic emeralds democratized the gemstone, making the coveted green hue accessible to a wider audience without the ethical and environmental concerns sometimes associated with mining.
Geological Formation and Sources: The Lab as the Origin
While natural emeralds form deep within the Earth's crust under specific geological conditions of high pressure and temperature, synthetic emeralds are created in controlled laboratory environments. The most common method is the hydrothermal synthesis, which mimics the natural formation process. In this method, a nutrient solution containing the necessary elements (beryllium, aluminum, silicon, and chromium) is subjected to high pressure and temperature in an autoclave. Over several weeks, crystals grow on a seed plate, eventually yielding rough synthetic emerald material.
The sources of these synthetic emeralds are not geographical mines but advanced laboratories. Companies like Chatham, Gilson, and others have become renowned for their production of high-quality synthetic gems. In the context of the provided materials, the synthetic emerald featured in Made By Mary's jewelry is not attributed to a specific lab but is described as "birthstone-colored cubic zirconia" (Source 4). This is a critical distinction. While true synthetic emeralds are composed of beryl, the materials mentioned in the sources indicate the use of cubic zirconia (CZ), a diamond simulant, colored to resemble emerald. This is an important clarification for gemstone enthusiasts and buyers, as CZ is a different material with distinct properties and value.
The use of colored cubic zirconia in the Made By Mary collection, as described in the sources, offers an affordable and visually appealing alternative. The product descriptions for the May Birthstone Eternity Ring specify "Asscher cut CZs" (Source 3), while the December Birthstone Stacking Ring mentions "Bezel-Set Cubic Zirconia" (Source 1). This consistent use of CZ across their birthstone collection (Source 4) highlights a market trend towards accessible, fashion-forward jewelry that prioritizes aesthetic and ethical considerations over traditional gemstone value.
Gemological Properties: A Comparative Analysis
Understanding the properties of the emerald, both natural and synthetic, is essential for appreciating its characteristics and care requirements. While the sources provided focus on the cubic zirconia used in the jewelry, it is instructive to compare the properties of a true synthetic emerald with those of the cubic zirconia simulant.
Emerald (Natural and Synthetic) Emerald is a variety of the mineral beryl, with the chemical formula Be₃Al₂(SiO₃)₆. Its iconic green color comes from trace amounts of chromium and sometimes vanadium. Emeralds are known for their characteristic inclusions, often referred to as "jardin" (French for garden), which are accepted as part of the stone's identity. On the Mohs scale of hardness, emerald ranks between 7.5 and 8, making it durable enough for jewelry but requiring care to avoid chipping or cracking due to its typical inclusions and cleavage.
Cubic Zirconia (CZ) Cubic zirconia is a synthetic material, zirconium dioxide (ZrO₂), created in labs. It is a popular diamond simulant but can be colored to mimic other gemstones. CZ has a Mohs hardness of 8 to 8.5, which is slightly harder than emerald, making it quite durable for everyday wear. However, its refractive index and dispersion (fire) are different from emerald, giving it a different kind of sparkle. While CZ is optically similar to diamond, a colored CZ for emerald will lack the subtle depth and "jardin" of a true emerald, offering a more uniform, glass-like appearance.
The table below summarizes the key differences between a true synthetic emerald and the cubic zirconia used in the referenced jewelry.
| Property | Synthetic Emerald (Beryl) | Cubic Zirconia (CZ) - Colored for Emerald |
|---|---|---|
| Chemical Composition | Be₃Al₂(SiO₃)₆ | ZrO₂ |
| Hardness (Mohs) | 7.5 - 8 | 8 - 8.5 |
| Refractive Index | 1.577 - 1.583 | ~2.15 |
| Specific Gravity | 2.72 - 2.78 | 5.6 - 6.0 |
| Key Characteristic | "Jardin" (inclusions), vitreous luster | High dispersion ("fire"), uniform clarity |
The sources indicate that Made By Mary's rings use "Asscher cut" and "bezel-set" cubic zirconia (Sources 1, 3). The Asscher cut, a step cut with cropped corners, is a classic style that enhances the depth of colored stones, which is why it is often used for emeralds. The bezel setting, which encircles the stone with a metal rim, offers excellent protection, ideal for a ring intended for daily wear.
Symbolism and Metaphysical Beliefs: Intuition and Modernity
Emeralds have long been associated with profound symbolism. In ancient lore, they were believed to grant the wearer foresight, to protect against evil spirits, and to promote fidelity and love. The gemstone was also linked to the goddess Venus, symbolizing eternal love and rebirth. In modern crystal healing practices, emerald is often associated with the heart chakra, believed to promote emotional balance, compassion, and unconditional love.
The Made By Mary collection reinterprets this symbolism for a contemporary audience. Their product description for the May Birthstone Eternity Ring explicitly links the stone to "Intuition" (Source 3). This modern metaphysical belief positions the emerald (or its colored CZ representation) as a tool for enhancing inner wisdom and self-trust, aligning with the self-care and mindfulness trends prevalent in today's culture. The phrase "a luminous reminder that when you elevate the everyday moments, the present becomes your greatest story" (Source 3) transforms the birthstone from a traditional symbol of historical virtues into a personal talisman for living intentionally.
This shift in symbolism—from external virtues like love and prosperity to internal qualities like intuition—reflects a broader cultural movement. For the modern wearer, the value of the birthstone ring lies less in its historical gemological provenance and more in its personal significance and aesthetic appeal. The use of cubic zirconia, a conflict-free and affordable material, further supports this narrative of conscious, personal choice over traditional status symbols.
Care and Cleaning: Maintaining Your Birthstone Jewelry
Proper care is essential to preserve the beauty and longevity of any piece of jewelry. The care instructions for a synthetic emerald or a cubic zirconia piece differ slightly based on their specific properties, but general guidelines apply.
For both synthetic emeralds (true beryl) and cubic zirconia, the following practices are recommended: * Cleaning: Use a soft brush, warm water, and a mild dish soap. Avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, and steam, as these can damage the stone or the setting. For cubic zirconia, which is more susceptible to oils and lotions, regular cleaning is important to maintain its brilliance. * Storage: Store jewelry separately to prevent scratches. While CZ is relatively hard, it can be scratched by harder materials like diamonds or sapphires. A soft pouch or a lined jewelry box is ideal. * Durability: Both materials are suitable for daily wear, but it is advisable to remove rings during strenuous activities (e.g., gardening, weightlifting) to avoid impact or exposure to abrasive substances.
The bezel setting used in some of the referenced rings (Source 1) provides an added layer of protection, as it encases the girdle of the stone. However, the prong setting of the Asscher-cut ring (Source 3) requires checking for loose prongs periodically to ensure the stone remains secure.
Conclusion
The synthetic emerald, and its more accessible cousin the colored cubic zirconia, represents a significant evolution in the world of birthstones. It honors the historical and symbolic legacy of the May emerald—its connection to intuition, renewal, and spring—while aligning with contemporary values of affordability, ethical sourcing, and personal expression. The Made By Mary collection, as illustrated in the provided sources, exemplifies this modern approach, offering beautifully designed pieces that make the essence of the emerald accessible to a new generation.
For the gemstone enthusiast, the true synthetic emerald remains a marvel of modern gemology, a chemically identical twin to its natural counterpart. For the jewelry buyer seeking a meaningful and stylish accessory, the colored cubic zirconia provides a vibrant and durable alternative. In both forms, the gemstone for May continues to inspire, reminding us that whether born from the depths of the Earth or a laboratory, beauty and meaning are not defined by origin alone, but by the story we choose to tell with them.