The tradition of associating specific gemstones with specific months is a practice steeped in history, religion, and commerce. While the modern consumer views the birthstone list as a fixed, ancient calendar, its origins are far more complex and its evolution surprisingly recent. The journey of the birthstone from the breastplate of Aaron to the display cases of modern jewelers reveals a fascinating interplay between biblical texts, commercial strategy, and cultural symbolism. This guide explores the history of the birthstone list, the standardization efforts that created the modern chart, and the specific gemstones assigned to each month.
The Ancient Origins: The Breastplate of Aaron
The earliest known connection between gemstones and specific months is found in the Old Testament, specifically in the Book of Exodus. The text describes the "breastplate of Aaron," a ceremonial garment set with twelve different gemstones. These stones were arranged in four rows of three, representing the twelve tribes of Israel.
While the exact identification of these biblical stones is a subject of scholarly debate, the tradition established a powerful link between gemstones and the number twelve. Later, in the first century A.D., the historian Josephus proposed a connection between these twelve stones and the twelve signs of the zodiac. This theory suggested that wearing the stone corresponding to one's zodiac sign would provide protection and good fortune.
This concept evolved further in the 8th and 9th centuries. Scholars and mystics began to suggest that a person should possess all twelve stones, wearing a specific stone for each month as a talisman. This practice, rooted in the belief that the stones held varying powers depending on the time of year, laid the groundwork for the concept of a monthly birthstone.
The Road to Standardization: A Commercial Evolution
For centuries, the list of stones associated with each month remained fluid, varying significantly by region and culture. It wasn't until the early 20th century that a concerted effort was made to standardize the selection, driven largely by the American jewelry industry.
In 1912, the National Association of Jewelers (now known as Jewelers of America) convened to establish an official list of American birthstones. The goal was to create a consistent and marketable system that would encourage the sale of birthstone jewelry. This list was a compilation of various customs that had evolved over time, with a practical consideration for stones that were readily available for jewelers to sell and promote.
The 1912 list established the foundation for the modern chart: - January: Garnet - February: Amethyst - March: Aquamarine - April: Diamond - May: Emerald - June: Pearl - July: Ruby - August: Peridot - September: Sapphire - October: Opal - November: Topaz - December: Turquoise
This standardization was not a one-time event. The list has been updated several times to reflect market availability and consumer trends. In 1952, the Jewelry Industry Council of America made significant additions, acknowledging stones that had gained popularity. Alexandrite was added to June, citrine to November, and pink tourmaline to October. Zircon was also added to December's selection.
More recently, the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has taken a role in updating the list. In 2002, tanzanite was added as an option for December, a stone that had surged in popularity due to its unique blue-violet hue and limited geographic source. In 2016, spinel was added to August, providing an additional color option alongside peridot and sardonyx. These modifications demonstrate that the birthstone list is a living document, evolving alongside the gem trade itself.
The Modern Birthstone List
The modern American birthstone list, as standardized by the jewelry industry, provides a clear guide for identifying the gemstone associated with each month. It is important to note that many months now offer multiple options, allowing for personal preference in color and budget.
- January: Garnet
- February: Amethyst
- March: Aquamarine
- April: Diamond
- May: Emerald
- June: Pearl, Alexandrite
- July: Ruby
- August: Peridot, Spinel
- September: Sapphire
- October: Opal, Tourmaline
- November: Citrine, Topaz
- December: Tanzanite, Zircon, Turquoise, Blue Topaz
Alongside the modern list, a traditional birthstone list exists, offering alternative gemstones for each month. For example, the traditional stone for March is bloodstone, and for April, it is diamond (though rock crystal is sometimes cited). Individuals often choose between the modern and traditional lists based on personal preference, the desired aesthetic, or the historical resonance of a particular stone. Furthermore, alternative lists based on astrological signs, Hindu Ayurvedic systems, and Tibetan mystical traditions provide even more options for finding a gem that resonates with an individual.
Symbolism and Metaphysical Beliefs
Throughout history, birthstones have been imbued with symbolic meanings and believed to possess metaphysical properties. These beliefs vary across cultures and eras, but common themes emerge that connect specific stones to human emotions and virtues.
Emeralds, the birthstone for May, have long symbolized renewal, growth, and vitality, reflecting their vibrant green color. Rubies, associated with July, represent passion, love, and courage, their deep red hue evoking fire and intensity. Pearls, one of the birthstones for June, are often linked to purity, wisdom, and integrity, their smooth, lustrous surface suggesting innocence.
Other stones carry distinct meanings. Citrine, a November birthstone, is associated with happiness, success, and abundance, while topaz, also for November, symbolizes love, affection, and strength. December’s birthstones—tanzanite, zircon, turquoise, and blue topaz—each carry unique symbolism, ranging from transformation and prosperity to protection and calm.
While these metaphysical beliefs are not scientifically proven, they contribute to the enduring appeal of birthstones and their significance as personal talismans. Today, birthstones are primarily celebrated as a way to mark birthdays and special occasions, but the underlying tradition of attributing meaning and power to gemstones continues to resonate with many.
A Comparative Look at Birthstone Properties
Understanding the physical properties of these gemstones is essential for both jewelers and collectors. The hardness, color, and composition of a stone determine its durability, value, and appropriate use in jewelry. The following table, compiled from available data, provides a snapshot of the gemological characteristics associated with each month's stones.
| Month | Modern Birthstone | Traditional/Alternative | Color | Key Symbolism | Hardness (Mohs Scale) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | Garnet | - | Deep Red | Friendship, Trust, Protection | 6.5-7.5 |
| February | Amethyst | - | Purple | Peace, Protection, Tranquility | 7 |
| March | Aquamarine | Bloodstone | Light Blue | Courage, Honesty, Loyalty | 7.5-8 |
| April | Diamond | Rock Crystal | Clear/Colorless | Love, Purity, Strength | 10 |
| May | Emerald | Chrysoprase | Green | Rebirth, Love, Wisdom | 7.5-8 |
| June | Pearl | Alexandrite, Moonstone | White/Cream | Purity, Innocence, Faith | 2.5-4.5 |
| July | Ruby | Carnelian | Red | Passion, Protection, Prosperity | 9 |
| August | Peridot | Spinel, Sardonyx | Lime Green | Strength, Good Fortune, Peace | 6.5-7 |
| September | Sapphire | Lapis Lazuli | Blue | Wisdom, Loyalty, Nobility | 9 |
| October | Opal | Tourmaline | Multicolored | Hope, Creativity, Innocence | 5.5-6.5 |
| November | Topaz | Citrine | Yellow/Orange | Love, Affection, Strength | 8 |
| December | Tanzanite | Turquoise, Zircon | Blue/Purple | Protection, Healing, Wisdom | 6.5-7 |
Hardness is measured on the Mohs scale from 1 (softest) to 10 (hardest).
This data highlights the vast range of physical properties found in birthstones. From the exceptional hardness of the diamond (10) to the relative softness of pearl (2.5-4.5), the durability of these stones varies significantly. This information is crucial for determining how a stone should be worn and cared for.
Care and Cleaning Considerations
The diverse physical properties of birthstones necessitate different care and cleaning methods. A stone's hardness, cleavage (the tendency to break along flat planes), and porosity all influence how it should be maintained.
Stones with high hardness ratings, such as diamonds, sapphires, and rubies (Mohs 9-10), are very durable and can be cleaned with warm water, mild soap, and a soft brush. They are resistant to scratching and can withstand daily wear.
However, many other birthstones require more delicate handling. Pearls are organic gems and are extremely soft and porous. They can be easily scratched by other jewelry and can be damaged by chemicals, including those found in cosmetics, hairspray, and perfume. They should be wiped clean with a soft, damp cloth after each wear.
Opals are another delicate stone. With a hardness of only 5.5 to 6.5, they are susceptible to scratches and impact. Furthermore, some opals contain water and can crack if exposed to extreme temperature changes or dry environments. Emeralds, while relatively hard (7.5-8), often have internal inclusions that make them vulnerable to breakage if struck with force. Care should be taken to protect these stones from hard knocks and ultrasonic cleaners, which can exacerbate existing fractures.
Conclusion
The modern birthstone list is a product of a long and evolving history, shaped by ancient traditions, religious texts, and modern commercial interests. From the twelve stones of Aaron's breastplate to the standardized chart created by the National Association of Jewelers in 1912, the journey of the birthstone reflects a human desire to connect with the natural world and imbue objects with personal meaning.
While the list has been updated to include stones like tanzanite and spinel, its core appeal remains unchanged. Birthstones offer a way to personalize jewelry, celebrate individual identity, and participate in a tradition that spans millennia. Whether chosen for their symbolic meaning, their aesthetic beauty, or their geological rarity, these gemstones continue to hold a special place in our culture, serving as both a link to the past and a personal adornment for the present. For the gem enthusiast, the student of history, or the jewelry buyer, the birthstone chart provides a fascinating window into the intersection of science, commerce, and human belief.