The practice of associating a specific gemstone with an individual's month of birth is a tradition that spans millennia, deeply woven into the fabric of human history, religion, and commerce. Today, the concept of a birthstone is a familiar part of modern culture, often gifted as a token of affection or worn as a personal talisman. However, the list of stones we recognize today is not static; it is the result of a long evolution, blending ancient lore with modern market decisions. This article provides a comprehensive exploration of birthstones, detailing their historical roots, the distinctions between traditional and modern lists, their geological origins, and the gemological properties that define them.
The modern birthstone list, widely accepted in the United States and many other parts of the world, was formalized in 1912 by the National Association of Jewelers (NAJ). This list was not an arbitrary creation but an effort to standardize a practice that had already been in place for centuries. The NAJ, and subsequent revisions, have occasionally added new stones to reflect market availability and consumer preference, such as tanzanite for December. This has resulted in a system where individuals often have multiple options for their birth month, allowing for personal choice based on color, budget, or the perceived meaning of the stone.
Beyond the standard monthly list, alternative systems exist, including those tied to zodiac signs and the Chinese zodiac. These systems offer a different framework for selecting a personal gemstone, linking stones not to the calendar month but to astrological periods and cycles. Understanding the full scope of these traditions requires delving into the history of how these connections were first established and how they have been interpreted over time. From the breastplate of the High Priest in ancient Israel to the jewelry counters of the 21st century, birthstones have held a unique and enduring appeal.
Historical Roots and the Path to Standardization
The origin of the birthstone tradition can be traced back to the first century of the Common Era. The mineralogist and gemologist George Frederick Kunz, in his seminal work The Curious Lore of Precious Stones, notes that the belief in a special stone for each month is rooted in the writings of Josephus, a first-century historian, and St. Jerome, a fifth-century theologian. These early scholars connected the twelve stones on the breastplate of the High Priest, as described in the Book of Exodus, to the twelve tribes of Israel, and subsequently to the twelve signs of the zodiac and the twelve months of the year.
This connection between the biblical breastplate and personal birthstones gained traction over the ensuing centuries. By the 18th century, the practice of wearing a stone associated with one's birth month had become widespread across Europe. The idea was that wearing the designated stone, particularly during its associated month, would confer special benefits and protection upon the wearer.
The formalization of this long-standing tradition began in the United States. In 1912, the National Association of Jewelers (NAJ) convened to create a standardized list. This list, known as the "modern" birthstone list, aimed to provide clarity for both jewelers and consumers. The choice of stones was influenced by commercial availability and market trends. For example, some traditional stones were replaced or supplemented with alternatives that were more readily available or better suited for modern jewelry making. This process of evolution continues; for instance, spinel, citrine, and tanzanite have been added as more recent options for certain months, reflecting their growing popularity and availability in the gem market.
Modern vs. Traditional Birthstones
A key feature of the birthstone system is the distinction between "modern" and "traditional" lists. While the modern list is the most commonly referenced today, the traditional list retains historical significance and continues to be valued by many.
The modern list, established in 1912 and updated over the years, includes the following stones for each month:
- January: Garnet
- February: Amethyst
- March: Aquamarine
- April: Diamond
- May: Emerald
- June: Pearl (with Alexandrite as a modern alternative)
- July: Ruby
- August: Peridot (with Spinel as a modern alternative)
- September: Sapphire
- October: Opal (with Tourmaline as a modern alternative)
- November: Topaz (with Citrine as a modern alternative)
- December: Tanzanite, Blue Zircon, and Blue Topaz
The traditional list, which predates the 1912 standardization, often differs significantly. For March, the traditional stone is Bloodstone instead of Aquamarine. For June, the traditional list includes Pearl and Alexandrite. For August, Sardonyx is the traditional choice. For October, Opal is the sole traditional stone. November's traditional stone is Topaz. December's traditional list includes Turquoise and Lapis Lazuli.
The continued relevance of the traditional list is due to several factors. Some traditional stones, like turquoise, are less expensive or more culturally significant in certain regions. Others, like cultivated pearls, have remained consistently popular. Ultimately, in the United States and many other countries, consumers are free to choose between the modern and traditional lists, or even mix and match, selecting the stone that holds the most personal appeal. This flexibility underscores the personal nature of the birthstone tradition.
The Influence of Astrology: Zodiac and Chinese Zodiac Stones
For those seeking an even deeper connection between their gemstone and their personal identity, alternative birthstone systems based on astrology offer a compelling path. These systems link gemstones not to calendar months but to the more fluid periods associated with zodiac signs or the cyclical years of the Chinese zodiac.
Western Zodiac Birthstones
Western astrology divides the year into twelve sun signs, each with its own associated gemstone. These stones are chosen based on astrological properties rather than market availability or historical precedent. The connection allows individuals to choose a stone that aligns with their specific astrological profile, which may differ from their calendar month.
The following table outlines the gemstones associated with Western zodiac signs:
| Zodiac Sign | Dates | Gem |
|---|---|---|
| Aquarius | January 21 to February 18 | Garnet |
| Pisces | February 19 to March 20 | Amethyst |
| Aries | March 21 to April 20 | Bloodstone |
| Taurus | April 21 to May 20 | Sapphire |
| Gemini | May 21 to June 21 | Agate |
| Cancer | June 22 to July 22 | Emerald |
| Leo | July 23 to August 23 | Onyx |
| Virgo | August 24 to September 22 | Carnelian |
| Libra | September 23 to October 23 | Chrysolite |
| Scorpio | October 24 to November 22 | Beryl |
| Sagittarius | November 23 to December 22 | Topaz |
| Capricorn | December 23 to January 20 | Ruby |
For example, an individual born under the sign of Taurus (April 21 to May 20) would traditionally be associated with the emerald for the month of May. However, the zodiac birthstone for Taurus is sapphire, providing an alternative that may feel more personally resonant.
Chinese Zodiac Birthstones
Another alternative system is derived from the Chinese zodiac, which operates on a 12-year cycle, with each year represented by an animal sign. Each animal sign is linked to a specific gemstone. This system differs significantly from the Western monthly approach, as individuals born in January or February may fall into the zodiac year of the previous calendar year, depending on when the Chinese New Year occurs.
The following table provides a sample of Chinese zodiac signs and their associated stones:
| Chinese Zodiac | Sample Years | Stone |
|---|---|---|
| Rat | 1936, 1948, 1960, 1972, 1984, 1996, 2008 | Garnet |
| Ox | 1937, 1949, 1961, 1973, 1985, 1997, 2009 | Aquamarine |
| Tiger | 1938, 1950, 1962, 1974, 1986, 1998, 2010 | Sapphire |
| Rabbit | 1939, 1951, 1963, 1975, 1987, 1999, 2011 | Pearl |
| Dragon | 1940, 1952, 1964, 1976, 1988, 2000, 2012 | Amethyst |
| Snake | 1941, 1953, 1965, 1977, 1989, 2001, 2013 | Opal |
| Horse | 1942, 1954, 1966, 1978, 1990, 2002, 2014 | Topaz |
| Goat | 1943, 1955, 1967, 1979, 1991, 2003, 2015 | Emerald |
| Monkey | 1944, 1956, 1968, 1980, 1992, 2004, 2016 | Peridot |
| Rooster | 1945, 1957, 1969, 1981, 1993, 2005, 2017 | Citrine |
| Dog | 1946, 1958, 1970, 1982, 1994, 2006, 2018 | Diamond |
| Pig | 1947, 1959, 1971, 1983, 1995, 2007, 2019 | Ruby |
These alternative systems demonstrate the multifaceted nature of birthstone lore, offering a rich tapestry of beliefs and traditions from which individuals can draw.
Gemological Properties of Key Birthstones
Understanding the physical and chemical properties of birthstones is essential for appreciating their unique beauty and ensuring their proper care. Gemology, the science of identifying and evaluating gemstones, relies on a set of standardized characteristics.
January: Garnet
Garnet is the birthstone for January. While most commonly associated with a deep red color, the garnet group is remarkably diverse, with species available in a wide spectrum of colors including green (tsavorite, demantoid), orange (spessartite, hessonite), purple (rhodolite), yellow (mali), and even pink (malaya). Garnet is a silicate mineral with a Mohs hardness ranging from 6.5 to 7.5, indicating good durability for most jewelry applications. Major sources for these varied garnets include Africa, which has emerged as a key producer of spectacular new varieties.
February: Amethyst
Amethyst, a variety of quartz, is the birthstone for February. It is celebrated for its captivating purple hue, which can range from pale lilac to deep violet. Amethyst has a Mohs hardness of 7, making it a reasonably durable gemstone suitable for a variety of jewelry types. Its popularity is partly due to its relative affordability and widespread availability, which has made it one of the world's most popular purple gems.
March: Aquamarine and Bloodstone
March offers two distinct birthstones: modern (Aquamarine) and traditional (Bloodstone). Aquamarine, a variety of the mineral beryl, is prized for its soothing blue to blue-green tones, reminiscent of seawater. It has a Mohs hardness of 7.5 to 8, making it very good for jewelry. Bloodstone, a variety of chalcedony (a microcrystalline quartz), is a dark green stone flecked with red inclusions of iron oxide. It is slightly softer, with a Mohs hardness of 6.5 to 7, and is considered good for jewelry.
April: Diamond
The diamond is the traditional and modern birthstone for April. Renowned for its unparalleled brilliance and hardness, diamond is the hardest known natural material, scoring a 10 on the Mohs scale. This exceptional hardness gives it an "excellent" durability rating, making it ideal for jewelry that is worn daily, such as engagement rings. Its composition is pure carbon, and its formation deep within the Earth's mantle under extreme heat and pressure is a geological marvel.
May: Emerald
Emerald, the birthstone for May, is a member of the beryl family, celebrated for its brilliant, deep green color. Its Mohs hardness is between 7.5 and 8, but its durability is rated as "fair." This is because most emeralds contain inclusions and fractures, known as "jardin" (French for garden), which make them more susceptible to damage if struck. Emeralds are sourced from various locations around the world, including Colombia, Zambia, and Brazil.
June: Pearl, Alexandrite, and Moonstone
June is unique in having three birthstones: Pearl (traditional and modern), Alexandrite (modern), and Moonstone (sometimes listed as a traditional alternative). Pearls are organic gems, formed within mollusks, and have a very low Mohs hardness of 2.5 to 4.5, resulting in a "poor" durability rating and requiring careful handling. Alexandrite is a variety of chrysoberyl famous for its dramatic color change from green in daylight to red or purple in incandescent light. It is a very durable gem with a Mohs hardness of 8.5. Moonstone, a variety of feldspar, is known for its adularescence (a billowy, bluish sheen) and has a softer Mohs hardness of 6 to 6.5.
July: Ruby
Ruby, the birthstone for July, is a red variety of the mineral corundum. It is one of the most valuable and durable gemstones, with a Mohs hardness of 9 and an "excellent" durability rating. Its vibrant red color, caused by the presence of chromium, is highly sought after. Ruby is a sister stone to sapphire, which is corundum in all other colors. Major sources for ruby include Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, and Sri Lanka.
August: Peridot, Spinel, and Sardonyx
August offers three birthstone options: modern choices of Peridot and Spinel, and the traditional Sardonyx. Peridot is a unique gemstone that is found in only one color: an olive green. It is a variety of olivine and has a Mohs hardness of 6.5 to 7, rated as "fair." Spinel comes in a brilliant array of colors and is often mistaken for other gems like ruby. It is a very durable stone with a Mohs hardness of 7.5 to 8, rated "very good." Sardonyx is a banded variety of chalcedony, with a Mohs hardness of 7.
September: Sapphire
Sapphire, the birthstone for September, is the blue variety of corundum (ruby being the red variety). Like ruby, it possesses a Mohs hardness of 9 and "excellent" durability, making it an exceptional choice for all types of jewelry. While blue is the most famous color, sapphire can technically occur in any color except red. It is a symbol of wisdom and royalty and is mined in locations such as Sri Lanka, Madagascar, and Australia.
October: Opal and Tourmaline
October's birthstones are Opal (traditional and modern) and Tourmaline (modern). Opal is a unique, amorphous form of silica with a low Mohs hardness of 5.5 to 6, giving it a "poor" durability rating. It is prized for its "play-of-color," an iridescent phenomenon caused by the diffraction of light. Tourmaline, known as the "rainbow gemstone," occurs in a vast range of colors and has a Mohs hardness of 7 to 7.5, making it a "good" choice for jewelry.
November: Topaz and Citrine
November's birthstones are Topaz (traditional and modern) and Citrine (modern). Topaz, particularly the Imperial Topaz variety, is a silicate mineral with a Mohs hardness of 8. However, its durability is rated as "poor" due to its perfect cleavage, meaning it can be easily fractured by a sharp blow. Citrine is a variety of quartz with a Mohs hardness of 7 and "good" durability. Its warm yellow to brownish-orange color makes it a popular and affordable choice.
December: Turquoise, Zircon, and Tanzanite
December provides a trio of birthstones: traditional Turquoise, and modern Zircon and Tanzanite. Turquoise is an opaque phosphate mineral, known for its characteristic blue-to-green color. It is relatively soft, with a Mohs hardness of 5 to 6, and is rated "poor" for durability. Zircon (not to be confused with synthetic cubic zirconia) is a natural gem with a high refractive index, giving it exceptional brilliance. It has a Mohs hardness of 6 to 7.5, rated "fair." Tanzanite is a recent addition, a blue-violet variety of zoisite, with a Mohs hardness of 6.5, also rated "fair."
Symbolism and Metaphysical Beliefs
Throughout history, gemstones have been imbued with symbolic meanings and metaphysical powers. These beliefs often form a core part of a stone's identity and appeal.
- Garnet: Symbolizes strength and protection. It was historically believed to ward off evil and ensure the safety of travelers.
- Amethyst: Associated with peace, clarity, and spiritual balance. Ancient Greeks believed it could prevent intoxication and enhance quick thinking.
- Aquamarine: Known as the sailor's stone, it was thought to ensure safe passage across stormy seas and protect against drowning. It is also associated with courage and communication.
- Diamond: Represents eternal love, innocence, and purity. Its unbreakable nature makes it a symbol of enduring commitment.
- Emerald: Symbolizes rebirth, love, and fertility. It was believed to grant the wearer foresight and good fortune.
- Pearl: Represents purity, integrity, and loyalty. Pearls were thought to have a calming and balancing effect on the wearer.
- Ruby: Known as the "king of gems," it symbolizes passion, power, and prosperity. It was believed to protect its wearer from evil and bring good fortune.
- Peridot: Associated with prosperity, good fortune, and love. It was believed to ward off evil spirits and bring peace and happiness.
- Sapphire: Symbolizes wisdom, loyalty, and nobility. It was thought to protect its wearer from harm and attract divine favor.
- Opal: Represents inspiration, creativity, and hope. Its play-of-color was seen as a symbol of the magic and beauty of the universe.
- Topaz: Symbolizes love and affection. It was believed to aid in stress relief and enhance intelligence.
- Turquoise: One of the oldest known gems, it is associated with protection, wisdom, and good fortune. It was thought to change color to warn its wearer of danger.
Care and Cleaning
Proper care is essential to maintain the beauty and longevity of birthstone jewelry. The primary factor in determining care is the gemstone's hardness and cleavage, as measured on the Mohs scale.
- Excellent Durability (Mohs 9-10): Diamonds, Rubies, and Sapphires can be cleaned with warm water, mild soap, and a soft brush. They are durable enough for everyday wear.
- Good to Very Good Durability (Mohs 7-8.5): Amethyst, Aquamarine, Citrine, Peridot, Spinel, Topaz, and Tourmaline are relatively durable. Avoid harsh chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners for stones with cleavage (like Topaz). Warm soapy water and a soft brush are safe.
- Fair Durability (Mohs 6.5-7): Garnet, Emerald, Zircon, and Tanzanite require more care. Emeralds are particularly sensitive to impacts due to their inclusions. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners and steam cleaners for these stones. Clean with a soft, damp cloth.
- Poor Durability (Mohs 5.5 and below): Opal, Pearl, Turquoise, and Moonstone are very soft and porous. They should be kept away from heat, chemicals, and drastic temperature changes. Clean them only with a soft, damp cloth. It is advisable to put jewelry with these stones on last when dressing and take it off first.
Conclusion
The tradition of birthstones is a rich and multifaceted practice that connects us to ancient history, geological wonders, and personal identity. From the standardized modern lists to the alternative zodiac systems, these gems offer a diverse palette of colors, properties, and meanings. Whether chosen for their symbolic power, their astrological connection, or simply their aesthetic beauty, birthstones remain a cherished part of our culture. Understanding their historical journey, geological origins, and unique gemological characteristics allows for a deeper appreciation of these remarkable gifts from the Earth.